Crusadin' for a Minyan

Week 2 of classes went much more smoothly than week 1, largely because I had my schedule straightened out and didn't have to sit in on extra classes! I am enjoying my classes and think it is going to be a good semester. I have already completed one major assignment, an oral presentation in my Popes, Jews & Blood class, because I brilliantly volunteered to go first, before I realized it was 20% of our grade. But it seemed to go well. And if anyone has a burning desire to know more about the attacks on the Rhenish Jews in during the First Crusades, I'm your girl.

Since I have had additional inquiries as to my safety, let me reiterate: I am fine! I registered with the US Embassy before I arrived, and if there is any safety issue, I will receive an email. The only email I have received since I arrived in October was last weekend, when the embassy requested that US citizens not travel to Jericho Feb. 19-22, and even then, we were allowed to travel on the major highways near Jericho (not that I was travelling at all during that time). Although the reason I know I am really safe is that there has been no increase in security. For better or worse, the Israelis are more than a little paranoid when it comes to issues of safety, so the fact that security hasn't kicked it up a notch tells me that I am no less safe than I was when I first arrived.

I had an interesting experience at synagogue this week. In Judaism, a minimum of 10 people (10 men in Orthodox traditions), called a minyan, is required to begin prayer or Torah services. The synagogue that I attend near the kfar is a Conservative synagogue (meaning, among other things, that women count toward the minyan), and the Friday evening service, or Kabbalat Shabbat, is not when they have their big turnout - most people come to the Shabbat morning Torah service. Anyways, we were waiting for a minyan so prayers could start, and one person said we had enough and another disagreed. Now, normally counting to 10 isn't that difficult, but I discovered something about counting in synagogue. It turns out that I, as a Christian, don't count! It probably wouldn't have been so awkward for me, if it wasn't for the fact that the reason why we didn't have a minyan - namely, the fact that I am a Christian and therefore could not contribute to the minimal requirement - had to repeated a few times before everyone got it. And on top of that, the woman who "outed" me as a Christian then went on to say that I come every week and am a "faithful" part of their minyan - except, apparently, for the part where I don't actually count toward that minyan! I have to admit, at first I was rather upset, especially since one of the first times I attended this synagogue a lady had commented to me that we were lucky that we (meaning women) counted toward the minyan in the Conservative tradition, implying that even I counted (that week was the only time I mentioned that I was a Christian, because they had asked me where I went to school in the States). After further reflection (and a good night's sleep), I realized that as a Christian I will never fully be part of a synagogue, just like a Jew will never fully be part of a church. I may not be one of "them," but I am still welcomed with opened arms - and a hardy Shabbat shalom! - each week. What else could a (Christian) girl ask for?

Classes, Cairo and Conflict

Survived the first week of the new semester, but it was tougher than I would have liked. I discovered that classes I had registered for were not what I had anticipated and ended up sitting in on 8 extra hours of class in order to find 15 credits to take. For those of you who are interested in what I am taking, here is an overview of my class schedule:

Mondays: Modern Hebrew; Popes, Jews & Blood; Bringing the Bible to Life

Tuesdays: Modern Hebrew; Methodological Issues in the Study of Religion

Wednesdays: Reinventing Paul

Thursdays: Modern Hebrew; Cultural Encounters between Judaism & Islam in the Middle Ages

I think I ended up with some good classes, although most of them are outside of my field. I am excited about studying the relationship between Judaism and Christianity and between Judaism and Islam.

I was asked to blog about what is going on in Cairo and what sort of reactions I am seeing and hearing here. My parents and I were flipping through the channels one night at one of the hostels when we stumbled on CNN footage, although I honestly couldn't tell you what day that was. I would guess it was footage of the Jan. 28 protests. I remember realizing that it was footage of some sort of demonstration in Egypt and feeling a momentary sense of panic that was relieved when I realized that there was no attack. I was concerned that a(nother) war had started. Of course, since then I have realized that just because there isn't a war (at least not yet), that does not mean that everything is okay. There is concern over what sort of government there will be in Egypt when all is said and done, and if that government will be anti-Israel. That being said, the Egyptian revolution hasn't been a big topic of discussion, at least not among the people I have been around.

One exception to this, though, was Friday night. In celebration of a new semester, we had went to the German Colony for synagogue and Shabbat dinner at Jon's (sadly, though, it was too cold for the merpeset). After dinner, Jon asked if we had met any of the "Cairo kids," that is, the four Rothberg undergrads who had been studying at the American University of Cairo when the revolution started. Since things were too dangerous for the students to remain in Cairo, Hebrew U invited them to study at Rothberg instead, even offering them additional Arabic lessons. Jon told us about a Jerusalem Post article on these students, which I have since read. I will admit that some of the quotes were less than diplomatic, but I also sympathize with what they have been through in Cairo and now having to adjust to living in a city and attending a school that they had probably never considered before all of this. And while they probably shouldn't have criticized the country that has taken them in (especially to the media), I understand their frustration. They went to Cairo to study Arabic culture, in an Arabic country, and suddenly they find themselves in a Jewish state that can be very anti-Arabic.

Of course, there is always the question of the peace talks, which have yet to resume. Some say that what is going on in Egypt is a reason to resume the talks, others are using it as an excuse to not to continue the talks. And of course, the veto by the US on the UN Security Council resolution which condemns Israel's settlements does not help matters. (The US was the only one to vote against the resolution, but as a permanent member of the Council, the US has the power to veto any resolution.) So much for Obama being against the settlements. I am amused, though, that Israel is now ready to resume the peace talks - after the resolution was vetoed.

Living in the Middle East - in Israel, in Jerusalem - makes a person sensitive. Sensitive in that you are more aware of what is going on around you, and sensitive in that your responses to things tend to be more emotionally-charged. Nothing is black and white - and yet everything is presented as black and white. No one is entirely innocent, and no one is entirely guilty. And as an outsider, it is so easy to pass judgment, to say who's right and who's wrong. As if it were that simple.

Rockin' It with the 'Rents

So I took a hiatus from my blog - and the internet in general - while my parents were here, partially because we did not have internet access at the hostels. I will try to provide a recap of the trip, although it obviously will be lacking many of the details. And hopefully someday I will sort through the billion pictures my dad took and post some on Facebook.

January 19: Parents arrived while I was taking my Archaeology final. I then proceeded to miss my bus stop and had a momentary freak out because I had no idea where I was when the bus driver kicked me out at the end of the line. So my reunion with my parents was even more joyous because I was so relieved to final have reached the hostel! Oh, and apparently Mom decided to pass out on the airplane. And then everyone gave her everything she wanted, so I'm thinking about trying the same trick when I fly home...

January 20: Mount of Olives. We got a late start because we initially got on the bus going the wrong direction. My lovely roomie Annie joined us. Visited the German Church of the Annunciation, located on the Augustus Victoria Hospital complex, and the Russian Church of St Mary Magdalene. We (meaning, of course, me) got a little turned around because the German Church is a little ways away from the rest of the churches and it took us some extra time to find the others, so by then we were running really late. We skipped a few churches because I really wanted to see the Russian Church, and it is only opened on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 10-12. When we finished there we discovered that the other churches were closed for lunch until 2. So we decided to skip them and proceeded to take a very long walk (again, my fault) to the market. Apparently my ability to judge distances on maps is seriously lacking.

January 21: Bethlehem. Visited the Church of the Nativity & the rest of Manger Square, along with the Milk Grotto and Shepherd's Field. Ate at the Tent Restaurant. Didn't have problems with border control or taxis, thank God.

January 22: Israel Museum. And then got ripped off by the taxi who took us from our hostel in West Jerusalem to our hostel in the center of town.

January 23: My 25th birthday! The Old City: King David's Tomb/Hall of the Last Supper; Wailing Wall; Avigad's Wall (aka Broad Wall); Holy Sepulchre; Via Dolorosa. Birthday dinner at Focaccia Bar (which is pretty much my favorite restaurant now) with Annie and the parents.

January 24: The Old City: Temple Mount; Dormition Abbey; Peter in Gallicantu; Garden Tomb. I wasn't feeling well, so at this point, I parted ways with my parents, who returned to the Mount of Olives to see Gethsemane, Church of All Nations and Tomb of the Virgin Mary. I, on the other hand, returned to the hostel and rested. And broke my trusty pedometer, which was extremely sad. (And despite what Annie says, I did not walk the poor thing to death!)

January 25: Picked up the rental car. Had GPS troubles and thus a late start to the day. And then the stupid GPS decided to route us completely around Jerusalem (and around the Green Line), so it took us 3 hours to get to Ein Gedi (instead of 1-1.5). Thus, all we could do this day was one hike at Ein Gedi and a quick look at the ancient synagogue.

January 26: Woke up at 4am to hike up to Masada, only to find out that the hike started at 5:30, not 4:40 as we had been told the night before. Decided that I would hike up and that the parents would join me later, once the cable cars started running. The hike about killed me. Mom (who had been sick for a few days by then, thanks to the busloads of kids who run wild all night long at the hostels) would have never made it. Went to Qumran next and then returned to Jerusalem to get my z-pak for Mom and to return the stupid GPS that decided to quit working. Luckily, the one my parents brought with them decided to work (apparently Dad let the battery die and it doesn't like that). Drove to Tel Aviv and had Burgers Bar for the first time (which is ironic, since there is one right outside the kfar, on the way to the store).

January 27: Alexander Stream (which was not the resort-y type place the national parks website suggested; all we saw was a stream and the sea); Caesarea (which I almost didn't put on the list because I didn't think my parents would like it and they loved it); Tel Megiddo (which has been poorly maintained, which is a tragedy, considering the amount of history the site contains).

January 28: Haifa. Visited the Stella Carmelite Monastery and then walked down to Elijah's Cave, which turned out to basically just be a synagogue. Then walked back up to the monastery because the cable cars just broke down. Stopped by the Baha'i Shrine and Garden, which were gorgeous. Somehow managed not to find the Mt Carmel national park (also didn't really see any of the burnt forest, which was amazing, considering its extent). Went to Bet She'arim instead, which I really enjoyed, despite my archaeology professor's claim that there is nothing there.

January 29: Nazareth: Mary's Well and the Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation; Basilica of the Annunciation and Joseph's Church; Synagogue Church. Stopped at the Cana Wedding Church on the way to Tiberius. Wandered around Tiberius for a bit before heading to the next hostel, which was literally right on the Sea of Galilee. Had its own beach and all.

January 30: Yardenit (the Jordan River). I filled up a 20 oz bottle so we could divide it up later. Then my parents decided it would be better to buy the little bottles they had there that you could fill up. So we bought two, which I filled up. Then we bought two more, which I also filled up. And then we bought two more, which I refused to fill up because the light sprinkle turned into a light rain and then into a steady rain. Drove down to the Bet Alfa synagogue (as a side note, I must mention that my dad was surprisingly fascinated by the mosaic floors - and trust me, over 2 1/2 weeks, I showed him plenty!) and then up in Mt Gilboa to enjoy the views. Went to Belvoir/Kokhav Hayarden, a Crusader fortress which would have had far better views if it wasn't still hazy from the rain. Stopped at Hamat Teverya (aka Hamat Tiberius) because one ancient synagogue with a cool mosaic floor is just not enough for one day. Proceeded on to Capernaum and the Church of the Primacy of Peter. And then Mom decided to fall over a foot high cement block, conveniently placed in the middle of the sidewalk.

January 31: Arbel (which had beautiful views, also the first time I ever heard an Israeli say they hoped it didn't rain!). Tabgha, aka the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes. Korazim (an ancient Jewish site which was not originally on the list but we had some time to kill). Mount of Beatitudes.

February 1: Gamla (which has two hikes to see waterfalls, only they forgot to mention that the second waterfall - on the longer of the two hikes - was completely dried up from the drought) and Yehudiya (which also has a waterfall, one that wasn't dried up!).

February 2: Tel Hazor (similar to Tel Megiddo in its length of inhabitation but not as well known); Iyyon Stream (which was a killer hike but the three waterfalls were worth it); Dado Lookout at Metulla (where one can see Lebanon, along with the snow-capped Mt Hermon, the only place it really snows in Israel); Horeshat (though not really, since the park is only opened in the summer); Senir Stream.

February 3: Tel Dan, which is my absolute favorite - archaeology and lots of water in one place! And it was especially water-y from the winter rains - it felt like the water came from everywhere. My parents were kind enough to indulge me and allowed to explore every inch of the place. I had been there twice before, but there were still parts I hadn't seen. Afterwards was Banias Waterfall (which was pretty awesome too) and Banias Stream (the sacred dancing goats still make me laugh!).

February 4: The only day of the entire trip that was ruined by rain. Attempted to visit Nimrod's Fortress, but the whole point of it is the views, which were nonexistent due to the fog and the rain. Stopped at a waterfall nearby which was the hot spot. Guessing all the Israelis came out to see it because it is only really a waterfall when it rains.

February 5: Made the long drive back to Jerusalem. Back to the Old City so Dad could take pictures of the vendors and then to Sorek Caves. Never saw so many stalactites and stalagmites in such a small area before!

February 6: Went back to the Holy Sepulchre to show the parents the rest of it. Then my parents indulged me and we went to the Rockefeller Museum, which the guide book recommended for "archaeology buffs who don't get their fill at the Israel Museum." I am surprised my parents didn't stone me for all the "rocks" (code for archaeology) I made them see over the course of their visit! Walked from then to Hebrew U (through an Arab neighborhood, down the hill and then up a steeper hill - Mom wanted to kick my butt!) so I could show my parents where I go to school and the infamous botanical garden. Dinner from Burgers Bar, so now I can say I've ate at the one by the kfar. Received word earlier in the day that my parents' flight was cancelled and rescheduled for 7:30am the next day. They decided to take the last shuttle to the airport that night, so we said our goodbyes at 8:40pm. They made it home safely, though they had to run through customs in order to catch their connecting flight.

I think that is all. Despite some bumps and bruises, it was a lovely visit overall. It was hard to say goodbye after having them around for 2 1/2 weeks. I missed them before of course, but I think having them here made me miss them more. That and the fact I have a 25 page seminar paper to write, which I have absolutely no motivation to do.